?> Food for Thought
In the early ’90s, I had the opportunity to preside as chef for a boutique hotel in Zihuatanejo, Mexico. “Zihua,” as this small, lovely fishing village on the Pacific coast is known, had recently earned a reputation as a Mexican paradise after being featured as the escape fantasy for Tim Robbins’ character in The Shawshank Redemption. Certainly, “Zihua” is a very special spot, and for a number of reasons — not the least of which is the food.
Pozole is a soupy stew that can be found throughout Mexico in varying styles and colours (Verde, Rojo or Blanco); however, it is particularly associated with the state of Guerrero, where Zihua is located. Depending on regional preferences, it can be prepared with pork, chicken, beef or tripe, though its defining ingredient is hominy (lime-slaked corn kernels). Somewhat disconcertingly, according to the Mexican National Institute of Anthropology and History, pozole’s original recipe seems likely to have included human flesh, made available through ritual Aztec sacrifice; the meal was shared among the whole community as an act of religious communion (corn being a sacred plant to the Aztecs and consumed for “special occasions”). After the Spanish conquest, when cannibalism was banned, pork was substituted on the grounds of similarity of taste.
Gruesome history aside, pozole is a beloved dish in Mexico — and deserves to be, because it’s absolutely delicious. Simple ingredients combine into one of the most deeply satisfying bowls of soup you will ever come across. In fact, Guerrero is somewhat famous for Pozole Thursdays, or Jueves Pozolero. There are restaurants that open literally one day a week for the sole purpose of serving pozole. Their singular focus pays off in spades. If you are ever in the area, make sure your visit includes a Thursday.
Until then, here is a recipe for you and a crowd that provides perfect comfort food for a rainy Spring day (regardless of what day of the week it is). As my restaurant has a charcuterie program, we buy whole pigs, which lends itself well to running a pozole special from time to time — an excellent way to use the whole beast. Our recipe is a re-creation of the ones served in the state of Guerrero.
Chris McDonald is the owner/chef at CAVA
1560 Yonge Street, in Delisle Court (north of St. Clair)
416.979.9918; open nightly, 5pm-10pm
Pozole Verde
Serves 10-12
3-12 oz. cans of hominy, drained and rinsed
1 lb. lean, boneless pork shoulder, in a single piece
1 lb. pork neck or hock bones
2 2/3 cups (12 ounces) hulled, untoasted green pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
2-13oz cans tomatillos, drained
4-6 serranos, stemmed and seeded
1 medium white onion, roughly chopped
2 large sprigs fresh, or 1 bunch dried, epazote (optional)
1 bunch cilantro (roots discarded)
2 bunches sorrel (leaves picked and any tough stems discarded)
2 tbsp lard or vegetable oil
salt, about 1 tbsp
Condiments and garnishes for serving:
1 cup diced red onion
1 cup thinly sliced red radish
1/3 cup dried oregano, Mexican if possible
2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted and diced in 1/2 inch chunks
2 cups chicharrones — crisp fried pork rinds — broken into 1-inch pieces
(or, 12-15 crisp fried tortilla strips)
2-3 serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded and minced
4 limes, cut into quarters
Cooking instructions
Measure 6 litres of water into a stockpot and add neck bones or shank. Slowly bring to a simmer, skim off the foam for the first 5 minutes of simmering, add pork shoulder, partially cover and cook over medium-low heat for 2 hours. Add water periodically to bring it back to its original level.
While meat is cooking, heat a large heavy skillet for a few minutes over medium-low heat.
Add the pumpkin seeds in a shallow layer and, when the first one pops, stir them constantly for several minutes, until all have popped and turned a golden color. Remove the seeds to a large bowl. Add tomatillos, along with the green chile, onion and herbs. Mix to combine. Remove 2 cups of broth from the pot and pour over the mixture.
In batches, scoop mixture into a blender jar and blend until smooth; if mixture is too thick to move through the blades, add a little more broth to get it going again.
Set a large heavy skillet over medium high heat and add the lard or oil.
When hot enough to make a drop of puree really sizzle, add it all at once and stir constantly for about 7 minutes, until thickened. Remove from heat and set aside.
To finish the pozole verde
Remove the meat and bones from the pot and set aside to cool. Stir the pumpkin seed mixture into the broth. Add the hominy. Let simmer for an hour, stirring frequently to ensure that it doesn’t stick.
While the soup is simmering, prepare the meat: shred the pork shoulder into large strands, and pick and shred meat from bones. Discard all fat, bones and skin.
Fifteen minutes before serving, season the soup with salt, taste and adjust. Hominy needs a generous amount. Stir in the shredded meat.
Ladle in to wide, pre-heated soup bowls. Have all condiments on the table for everyone to help themselves.
