The Traveller

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My final day in the Caymans, and I’m running late. I’ve become too used to “island time,” no doubt. I arrive in a harried hurry at Camana Bay’s boat dock, where I’m greeted by a dude with a soul patch who hands me a rum beverage and tells me not to worry. I’m the only guest today on the giant yacht for which he acts as host. The Cayman Elusion is a 42′ Sea Ray sport yacht that can host up to 14 people quite comfortably; it’s a luxury charter and, today, it’s been chartered for me.

The dude is named Shane and it turns out he’s originally from the bedroom city of Whitby, Ont. Small world, indeed. Having lived on these islands for several years, Shane has taken on their relaxed approach, except when it comes to serving the guests on the Cayman Elusion. Passing me another rum punch, he and his compatriot, Adam, the man who steers the ship (and a native Zambian) tell me that I’m in control — whatever I want to do, that’s what we’ll do. I like this plan.

Presented with a variety of options, I choose a loose itinerary that includes plenty of action. As it’s a Sunday, we first dock at Rum Point, and I deboard to amble around this relaxed place that’s home to a handful of beach bars, and more hammocks than people. Afterward, we roar out to a spot informally known as Starfish Point. Shane dives in and finds me some starfish; it’s definitely luxury tourism when you don’t have to put down your drink to see the wildlife, because your host is bringing the wildlife to you. Next, I roar around the North Sound on the Jetski that’s stowed on the back of the Elusion. I can think of few better ways to spend a Sunday.

Back on the boat, we head out to the place where the 60-foot waters of the North Sound meet the 2,000 foot waters beyond. Fish like to skim along the wall that separates these two extremes, and we drop in a couple heavy lines. We don’t have to wait long. Soon, Shane and I are reeling in fish, one after the other, both barracudas. Shane holds one, mouth open, to reveal its fearsome teeth.

Thoroughly satisfied with the day, we roll back to the dock at Camana Bay. Shane says that he lives a good life here on Cayman — a house (admittedly, shared with roommates) near the beach, a surfboard always at the ready, and plenty going on, all the time, if he ever gets bored. “I never get island fever,” he says, a smile on his face. “I just love the laid back lifestyle.”

It turns out that Shane has a room available in that house. What time is it right now? Hmm, maybe it’s “island time.” After five days of compelling days of Cayman culture, I’m tempted to inquire about the rent.

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Image courtesy of Pratik M.